Mad River Canoe

When ordering replacement vinyl gunwale be sure to request the correct length - order rails longer than your canoe.

Canoes are measured straight down the keel line. Gunwales take a bit more circuitous route getting from end to end. Vinyl rails come in three sizes, 15', 16' & 17'. All Mad River vinyl gunwales include a "L" shaped aluminum insert to add strength and structure to the rail.

Place orders for replacement gunwales through your authorized Mad River dealer.

Specify your model of canoe and hull material when ordering gunwales to ensure compatibility.

Composite (fiberglass or Kevlar® hulls) differ in thickness from Royalex® If you are unsure of model or material, bring your boat to the dealer, they can usually identify the model and material. If this is not practical, the serial number on your canoe will be helpful. Serial numbers are located on the right side of the stern of the hull just below the gunwale. It will either be engraved on a small brass plate or stamped directly into the hull. If difficult to read, make a rubbing by holding a piece of paper against hull and scraping a pencil point across paper. The number should be revealed on reverse side of paper.

A complete re-rail installation will require 2 vinyl gunwales.

Unlike ash gunwales which utilize an inside rail and an outside rail on each side, vinyl gunwales are a unibody construction in which the inside and outside gunwales are incorporated into one piece.

In most cases, the decks on vinyl-railed canoes can be saved and reused with new rails.

This assumes the new rails have the same profile and dimensions as the old rails. If you are replacing ash gunwales with vinyl, your canoe will require the addition of appropriate decks and hardware.

Due to their length, vinyl gunwales cannot be shipped via UPS.

One alternative is to ship by common carrier (via truck) but this is expensive (approximately .00 - 0.00). Gunwales shipped via common carrier will be sent freight collect (payment due on receipt). The best alternative is to arrange shipment of gunwales to accompany a shipment of boats to your local dealer. If this can be arranged, there is no freight charge for the gunwales.

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Rubber Mallet
• Electric Drill
• Pop Rivet Tool
• 17/64" Drill Bit
• 3/8" Wrench
• 3/8" Drill Bit
• 7/16" Wrench
• 13/64" Drill Bit
• Hack Saw
• 6 3" C Clamps
• 20' Tape Measure
• Putty Knife
• Duct Tape
• Pencil/Non-permanent Marker

Procedure:

1. Run tape measure along hull below gunwale and mark center point on hull. Measure gunwales to confirm they are of sufficient length to cover length of hull. Check to make sure aluminum inserts are in place inside vinyl gunwale and ends are flush. If re-rail requires removal of existing gunwales follow steps 2-5:
1. Mark placement of seats, thwarts, and yokes on side of canoe hull with marker. This will provide a reference for replacement of these parts when new gunwales are installed.
2. Mark rivet or screw locations. When fastening new rails in place these marks will serve to space new rivet locations. It is preferable to use new holes rather than enlarge the existing holes with the new rails. Enlarged holes can result in rails becoming slightly loose over time.
3. For vinyl or aluminum gunwales: Using 13/64" bit, drill out existing rivets. Drill from outside hull positioning end of drill bit in center of rivet head. Drill until flange of rivet head separates from rivet stem. It may be necessary to poke rivet stem through hull to dislodge rivet. For wooden gunwales: Back out screws, starting at one end of hull and proceeding towards other end and continuing down other gunwale to return to end where started.
4. When all fasteners are free, pry up on decks and remove. This should also free gunwales along hull. On wooden gunwales, outwale will drop free when final fasteners are removed.
2. Place decks onto hull, making sure end of deck fits snugly against the bow and stern (see diagram 1). Tamp with rubber mallet to seat properly. With a pencil, mark outside of the hull at rear edge of the deck on both sides. Also mark point on deck where length of gunwale will be inserted. (see Point "A" of diagram 2). Remove decks after making marks.
3. Run tape measure along top edge of hull following outside surface of hull. Start measure at Point "A" at one end of canoe and measure to Point "A" at other end. Double check measurement as this will be length you will cut new gunwales.
4. Cut new gunwales to measurement made in step 7.
5. Mark center point on each new gunwale.
6. Position new gunwale on hull, matching center point marked on hull to point marked on gunwale. Narrow side of gunwale goes to the outside of the hull and wide side to inside to provide mounting point for hanging seats, thwarts, and yokes. Press the first 24" of the gunwale into place along top edge of the hull. Tapping down on the gunwale with a rubber mallet will help to ensure that the gunwale is fully seated onto hull. Secure the gunwale in place with "C" clamp. As you continue, you may find that wedging a putty knife between the gunwale and hull while tapping with the mallet will help. As you work your way along the hull you use duct tape to hold the gunwale in place. It is important that the gunwale be seated flush against top edge of hull throughout the length of the canoe.
7. Continue working down side of canoe, working towards end. Leave last 3 feet of each end of gunwale free to allow for insertion of decks.
8. Lift the ends of the gunwales from the hull and insert then into decks, to point "A" in diagram 2. Seat assembly onto hull, making sure it is fully seated against top edge of hull and correctly positioned as far as overhang at end of canoe as shown in Diagram #1. Pull assembly down tight on top of hull and tape in position with duct tape.
9. Step back and "eyeball" the gunwale. Look for any rises or humps that would indicate gunwale is not seated completely on hull. Tamp down and secure any section of rail necessary.
10. Along gunwale sections, refer to the marks locating the original rivet locations, Place evenly spaced marks between old rivet locations. These will be new rivet locations. At decks, mark locations as described in following step.
11. Mark point on the outside edge of the deck 1" from point where gunwale is inserted ("B" in diagram 2). Make a second mark 1" from end of deck ("C"). Make a third mark 3" forward of point "B" ("D"). and a fourth mark 2" from tip of deck ("E").
12. Wrap a piece of tape 3/4" from tip of 13/64" drill bit. This will prevent you from drilling all the way through inside wall of gunwale.
13. Drill at marks, positioning drill on outside of hull and drilling through bottom flange of gunwale. Insert rivet in each hole before proceeding to next mark. Place a #10 flat washer on inside of each of the rivets that will secure the decks.
14. Once all rivets have been installed on one side of canoe proceed to secure rivets with rivet gun. It may require several pulls on gun to snap rivet. For best results, release grip completely on gun and push nose of gun flush against hull between pulls. Keep gun straight and true while riveting, do not try to hurry things along by bending or twisting rivet gun. This can result in rivet stud being jammed in gun.
15. Take a minute and reseat rails on other side of canoe before repeating steps 16 and 17 on that side.
16. Using marks as reference, rehang seats, thwarts, yokes, etc. Drill 1/4" holes to accommodate Mad River Canoe mounting hardware.

If additional information is required or you need a question answered, contact your Authorized Mad River Canoe Dealer or call Mad River Customer Service @ 800/311-7245.

Diagram 1